When I saw the entry about public bath and sauna on the schedule I began scheming ways of getting out of it.. Hmm extreme jet lag, uhh stomach problems..easy. But our hosts had their gentle ways of coming down from the mountains, evolved through centuries of properly seeing the day's or the week's end. After tracing dinosaur tracks, seeing the ancient poet's home and climbing stairs to the peak of Mt --- our hosts brought us to a small traditional restaurant at the foot of the mountain for some kim chee and rice wine. After that we headed for the baths.
The only thing worse than not knowing what to do in a situation is to not know what to do in a situation while one is naked. As a nerd who had always managed to dodge gym class and public showers, the thought of bathing with a room full of men was not exactly something I longed for. Conversation was not exactly an alternative at this point. We followed whatever our host did and secured all clothing and items in our locker. Any kind of clothing is expressly forbidden in the baths. The only thing you can wear is the key to your locker, which you attached to your wrist or ankle with a coiled cord.
The men and women's baths are separate.
It is expressly forbidden to enter the bath area without first going to the toilet so we were sent on the detour before going in. Soaps, scrubbing cloth, towels, toothbrush and toothpaste were supplied and were to be used.
The first area of the bath was an open shower area where one had to shower and brush one's teeth. This assured that folks didn't dirty up the water in the baths. Then it was a few minute's dip in a pool that was heated to about 38 degrees C. After some time in the pool, we headed to another, slightly cooler pool. After that pool we headed for the dry sauna. This room was incredibly heated by what appeared to be large quartz stones with dessicant stones in the ceiling. Our host turned an hour glass over and pointed to it, as we were to sweat and suffer until the pink sand in the glass was done with us.
After the dry sauna was the steam sauna, which was even hotter. After a few minutes steaming we headed back out to the pools. First we dipped back into the cool pool then back into the warmer pool then back to the cool pool. After that was another shower and then to dry off. The bath was quite refreshing. Conclusion: I think we worry too much about nakedness in our culture.
How to eat an octopus
During this time we have been fed relentlessly with huge feasts involving seafood, much of which is served sashimi. Typically there would be delicious conch, mackerel, at least 2 flavors of kimchi (of course), shrimp, oysters and other shellfish and this evening, live octopus. This guide will help you with eating a live octopus, should you encounter this wonderful opportunity.
Step 1 make sure it is fresh
Whether it's on the open market or on the restaurant floor, Koreans are very careful to assure that their octopus is clean and well-aired. These creatures do not live long outside of the water so eating it live is the most reliable way to assure its freshness.
Step 2 cut it up into a thousand pieces that continue to wriggle
The octopus is a product of millions of years of evolution. Regardless of how small you cut the pieces they will continue to survive and act on their own. Perhaps the octopus's brain is distributed among its parts as a lesson in efficiency and higher advancement of living things. It would be kindof cool, for instance, if my hands could continue to work on this story while the rest of me slept.
Step 3 hot sauce
Dab just enough to add that spicy edge without overtaking the flavor. This is done precisely by dipping one's chopsticks into the sauce and using the drops it has picked up on your octopus. Hot sauce is optional but might help provide you or your octopus with courage.
Step 4 important: chew until it stops suckering the insides of your cheeks
When it comes to fight or flight, the octopus tentacle remains in your mouth are quite aware that they have nowhere to run or they may simply be curious about the warm, smushy space they have just entered. This is why the suckers will attempt to attach to the insides of your cheeks. Don't panic. It's actually quite an endearing and unique feeling to have your food continue to express its concerns while it is in your mouth. Simply chew until the suckers can no longer attach to your cheeks then swallow.
Step 5-10 Soju
Mr Kim is not shy when it comes to treating his guests right. Today he has taught us incredibly important non-verbal communication skills when it comes to drinking rice wine and soju. First, never let a friend drink a glass he has poured himself. Second, turn respectfully away from your elders as you drink when there has not yet been enough drinking for people to lose track of directions. Third drink. Fourth, and this is most important, express with enthusiasm, a loud, extended fricative at the back of your throat. This clears you out for the next round or unsticks the tentacles from your throat.
2 comments:
Hi. I am reading as someone who has never seriously contemplated going 'native' in Korea, someone who doesn't eat seafood, and yet is fascinated by all of this. I hope I don't offend with my comments, I mean, I could give you a PC, watered down reaction, but I'm hoping you'd be more entertained by my initial gut responses to your blog.
As I said, I'm fascinated. Stunned and fascinated. It's wonderful to be able to read of these experiences as you go through them for the first time, because I can say with great authority that I would never have had the guts? chutzpah? stomach? to go through with either the public baths or the octopus eating. (I noticed the mention of rice wine before the baths - hope you took enough to help you through!)
I agree we're overly body conscious, but I have to wonder - when you're in a room full of naked people, where do you look?!? Do you talk, or is it mostly a meditative quiet time? Even today in the gym lockers, most women change quickly and with their eyes down or facing a locker. Talk is kept to a minimum. Written down it sounds repressed but it's actually just respectfully acknowledging someone's personal space in a situation where you're temporarily exposed. Is the culture there just so used to this experience that they don't 'look' or is it considered natural to casually glance over and chat with your neighbor as he gets undressed? Did you find people were...curious about you, since you're not Korean? Would such curiosity be considered commonplace or rude? Were there many/any other non-Koreans at the baths? Was the water deep enough to swim or do people just sort of sit there, as they would in a sauna?
I was horrified at the description of the wriggling tentacles. I...have no words really, other than to wonder how long it took to chew until the suckers can no longer attach to your cheeks. How small of a piece is 'manageable'? Is it impolite to wait until everything stops moving before starting? If you have to clear your throat of the suckers, does that imply they're still...twitching....as you swallow? Or are they just naturally sticky?
As someone who doesn't eat seafood, I wonder how rude would it be to decline these feasts your host provides? I suppose it's a trade off between your host respecting your preferences and your willingness to experiment with new things.
In any case, intriguing stuff! Wondering what you're up against today!
Hi, Suzanne
thanks for your comments
in a room full of naked people, I tend to look for the faces. I think if you show interest in other parts you're on your own ;-) Yes there is often conversation. In fact, business meetings are typically held in baths and saunas. One bath we saw in Wando even had cellular antennas that pointed specifically into the bath area to make sure there is good reception there. Nakedness = trust, which makes for a good meeting environment. Folks were quite courteous. The cold pools are deep enough to swim in. The hot pools are usually just for sitting. There was no staring. Of course it helped that I am about legally blind without my glasses and they completely fogged up.
As for the octopus, I had since learned that it is actually a dangerous delicacy. People have been known to die from the live tentacles suckering their throats so do take the part about chewing well seriously.
It's hard to say 'no' to seafood in a professional function, specifically when you are in a town where there is a statue of a clam. But because Korean cuisine is laid out with the seafood and vegetables separate, you should be able to do without seafood easily among friends.
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